Bracegirdle’s Glenelg

 

 

date of visit: Thursday 3 May 2012

Part of me feels like perhaps I shouldn’t write a review of Bracegirdle’s in Glenelg. It was a really rushed visit and that makes me worry that some of my comments will be based on an atypical experience.

However, before I even got in the door of Bracegirdle’s I was impressed. I emailed (via the website’s contact form) asking if the café was wheelchair accessible and whether or not they took bookings. The response arrived within a few hours (yes, to wheelchair accessible, but no to bookings) and from there I was able to work out the details of my visit very easily. Normally my concern is about dealing with the paraphernalia associated with the baby, but in this case it was a birthday afternoon tea for my 94 year old grandmother, who would be using a wheelchair.

I arrived after my parents and grandma – they were already settled in the sofas right at the front of the café. I found a nook for the pram, settled the baby in and then set about ordering myself some cake and coffee.

A cafe latte and raspberry chocolate brownies for me and a mango macaron (from SA’s own Nic and Rocco) for the baby (he’s allowed sweet treats on special occasions – and 94th birthdays are special). I took the macaron back to the table but coffees for dad and me, and my bronwies, we had to wait for.

And while the café was busy, I would suggest the wait was a little bit longer than called for. Overall I’d say the in-house service didn’t match up to the excellent email experience I’d had prior to going to Bracegirdle’s. The brownie I really enjoyed but not everyone was a fan. My dad thought it wasn’t chocolatey enough (“if it didn’t have that sauce on it, you wouldn’t know it was chocolate” – I think he was being a tad harsh there …) while my mum thought it was very rich. Make of that what you will.

As I said – the visit was brief. I had time to scoff my brownie and coffee before it was time to pack up everyone and head back out onto the street. My impressions, therefore, are very much first impressions. So yes, I would go back for a more leisurely coffee but I note that the service can be a little slow and it is quite noisy in the downstairs area (there is also an upstairs). Prices seemed a touch high – for the brownie, macaron and two coffees it came to about $18 (the Entertainment Book does have a voucher for 25% discount) but without paying more attention I don’t really want to commit myself to that.

One to visit again. Indeed, the return visit will be in preference to Europa Espresso.

Bracegirdles House of Fine Chocolate on Urbanspoon

San Remo Artisan Pasta

10 May 2012

San Remo has just released a new range of artisan pasta. The pasta comes in two giant shapes (shells and spirals) as well as casarecce (twisted lengths of pasta).

The pasta is finished with a rough texture and comes in some very distinctive deli-style packaging. It is available now from Foodland, IGA and other supermarkets.

Chateau Coutet Tasting

photo by Alister Robertson

date: Thursday 26 April 2012

A week or two ago, Sommeliers Australia played host to Aline Baly, third generation owner of the first growth Sauternes house, Château Coutet. The tasting was held at Press* Food & Wine and we were treated to a vertical tasting of four Château Coutet vintages along with some food from Press*.

Conditions were slightly challenging at the start as we were seated in the restaurant with a rather boisterous table next to us but mid-way through we were able to move to the cosy booths by the bar – which actually proved ideal.

Aline was lovely – she came across as being incredibly genuine, as well as both knowledgeable and passionate about her family’s product. While there are 11 premiers crus in Sauternes and Barsac, Ch Coutet is one of just two in Barsac (the other being Ch Climens). Aline described the difference between Sauternes and Barsac as being one of terroir: the clay and limestone soils of Barsac mean it has a cooler terroir than in Sauternes, where there is more gravel. The gravel captures the heat of the day and releases it in the evening, which keeps the grapes warmer and means that the wines produced tend to be more opulent. The wines of Barsac, on the otherhand, are characterised by crispness, freshness and vivacity.

We tasted the four vintages in order of ‘power’: 2006, 2005, 2007, 1989. Aline told us that Ch Coutet is characterised by ginger, which I didn’t really get at all in the 2006, but it was much more evident in the ’05 and ’07 (the ’07 was my personal favourite). The 2007 had the spice and ginger but also some floral notes and on the palate had amazing acidity, combined with spice, toasted nuts, honey, dried apricots, lime marmalade and even some savoury notes.

Food wise we had gougères*, pâté, croquettes and wrapped up with crème brûlée, which was served with the 1989. The pâté was definitely the best match – unsurprising when Barsac and foie gras is one of the world’s great food pairings! The gougères worked well too but the croquettes were too dominated by Dijon mustard. The crème brûlée, which on paper sounds like a brilliant match, didn’t work so well because it was simply too sweet and rich for the wine. This is always the conundrum with desserts – whatever wine you choose has to be bigger, sweeter, richer, more powerful than the food and with many desserts that is a real challenge.

Aline said that her preferred food match with her family’s wines is lobster. And given the spiciness of the wines, lobster with saffron butter or a saffron hollandaise would be perfect …

Château Coutet is available from the Edinburgh Cellars and Dan Murphys.

UPDATE: read an interview with Aline at Decanter.

*They were described as gougères but as they were fried I’d have called them beignets.